Even a winning player loses often. Poker’s short-term swings are large, and a player who sits down with too much of their money on the table can go broke while playing well. Bankroll management is the set of rules that stops that from happening. It’s not exciting, but every long-term winner has it — and it’s also one of the best tools for keeping poker a healthy part of your life.
Key takeaways
- Your bankroll is money set aside only for poker — money you can afford to lose.
- Cash games: keep at least 30–40 buy-ins for your stake; more if you're less sure you're a winner.
- Tournaments swing far more: keep 100 or more buy-ins.
- Set clear rules to move down after losses, and move up only when the bankroll clearly allows it.
- Never top up your bankroll with money meant for bills, savings or family.
What is a bankroll?
Your bankroll is the money you’ve set aside only for poker. It’s not your savings, your rent money or next month’s food budget. If it went to zero, your life would carry on unchanged.
That definition matters more than any formula. Everything else in this lesson is about making that money last through poker’s natural swings.
Why you need so many buy-ins
Even strong players regularly lose 10, 20 or more buy-ins in a row over a bad stretch — without making mistakes. That’s variance, and you’ll see the numbers later in the course. If your bankroll is only 5 buy-ins, a normal downswing wipes you out, and you never get the long run in which your edge pays off.
Guidelines by format
These are common, conservative starting points for players who want to protect their roll. Adjust them to your situation: more buy-ins if you’re still learning or playing big fields; fewer only if you have a proven edge and can easily reload.
| Format | Buy-ins to keep | Example: playing at… | Bankroll |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cash games (100bb buy-in) | 30–40+ | NL10 (buy-in 10) | 300–400+ |
| Sit & gos (9-player) | 50–100 | 5 buy-in | 250–500 |
| Multi-table tournaments | 100–200+ | 5 buy-in | 500–1,000+ |
| Spin-style games | 100+ | 5 buy-in | 500+ |
Tournaments need more because most of the money comes from rare deep runs. You might cash only about 15% of the time and go a hundred tournaments without a big score.
Moving up and moving down
Clear rules made in advance beat decisions made after a painful session.
- Move up when your bankroll comfortably covers the next stake by your chosen rule — for example, 40 buy-ins of the new level — and your results at your current level are solid over a meaningful sample.
- Move down when you drop below your rule for the current stake — for example, below 30 buy-ins. Moving down isn’t failure; it’s what keeps you in the game.
- Shot-taking, a planned short attempt at a higher stake with a small part of your bankroll, is covered in Moving Up Stakes.
Stop-losses and session limits
A stop-loss is a maximum you’ll lose in one session — for example, three buy-ins. It doesn’t change the maths of the game, but it protects you from your worst decisions, which usually come after big losses. Pair it with a time limit, because tired players make expensive mistakes.
Track everything
You can’t manage what you don’t measure. Record every session — date, game, stake, time played, buy-in and cash-out — in the free bankroll tracker. After a few months you’ll know your real results, your hourly rate and whether you’re ready to move up. You’ll learn to read those numbers in Tracking Results.
Rake matters at small stakes
At the lowest stakes, the house’s cut (rake) takes a large share of each pot relative to the blinds. A small winner at one stake might be a breakeven player at another because of rake. When comparing sites or clubs, compare rake and any rakeback offers — it’s part of managing your money.
Next up: how stack sizes change your strategy in tournaments — Tournament Stack Sizes.
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